Monday, January 30, 2012

Antarctica

We reached Antarctica on schedule and have been sailing here for all but the last 14 hours – we floated stationary in a raging arctic storm as the Captain decided to wait until conditions improved. We just started moving slowly again - the snow has subsided & visibility has improved. The beauty is breathtaking – the majesty of the enormous, thunderous glaciers cannot be described. The waters of the bay are as still as glass, and since we aren't moving very quickly we don't do much to disturb it. The water is so clear you can see penguins swimming under it, playing in the wake of the ship. You look around you....miles and miles of breathtaking white, and acres of peaceful silence. Outside of the shelter of the bay the winds still howl and the water is iced iron, but inside, you are in a whole other world. Some people ask, "is it like Alaska?" I can only say...Glacier Bay in Alaska may be beautiful, Hubbard Glacier may be impressive, but neither are anything like this. Nature has painted with light, making the snow glow pink and peach and crystalline blue - each color reflected and refracted in the stillness of the water that laps against the ice itself. Like Alaska?? No. Antarctica renders you speechless and makes you feel very very small. If Alaska makes you feel tiny, Antarctica makes you feel infinitesimal. You are reminded of the size of it all, of the tremendous scale, when you see research stations, often inactive this time of year, huddled at the base of the giant ice mountains. They seem almost apologetic for being there.


In these waters, the ship operates with the bridge in what they call "amber code". Do not call unless it's an emergency, no unnecessary personnel allowed, no social visits whatsoever. They have more important things to deal with they tell us, as the dangers in these waters are not always visible. The temps are obviously well below freezing. Yesterday morning, I participated in the ships traditional Arctic Plunge – about 20 of us put on bathing suits and met at the upper deck open pool at the back-end of the ship. The wind was blowing at 52 mph, snowing and -1 degree. My kids will be proud, though I must say it was one of the dumbest things I’ve ever done! Into the pool we jumped!! My body was totally numb – the group stayed in the water no more than a minute. In fact, I think I was out in less than 30 seconds! Cheryl was there with a towel, robe & hot coffee! I’m glad I did it – it was a once in a lifetime opportunity.

   


   



   


The Arctic Plunge!





Black Spots Are Penguins