Skagen, Denmark

Skagen is Denmark’s northernmost city, main fishing port for herring, and they say it attracts more than 2 million tourists each year with most folks arriving by rail. It’s a very unique city – mostly yellowish buildings and homes with red roofs. Surprisingly, these architectural requirements went into effect way back in 1858. It reminds us of Napier - a tiny city in New Zealand, except most of the structures there were white with blue roofs as best I can recall. A very clean, beautiful community! Population listed as 8,200, and very expensive, much like Copenhagen. We checked some local real estate listings and a small, 1500 sq. ft. place near the ocean was asking US $2M.

The city takes its name from the peninsula which projects into the waters between the North Sea and the straits of Denmark. Being surrounded by the sea in three directions, Skagen has a very cool oceanic climate. When we arrived, the morning winds were whipping viciously, and our small ship had a pretty challenging time getting into the small harbor & docking. In fact, we had to ask for tug assistance – not just one, but two tugs. Cheryl and I were the first two off the ship. With rain in the forecast, we wanted to get into the city as quickly as possible before the storm system moved in. The wind was so strong, it was blowing us both sideways as we descended the gangway! Aside from one other passenger, we were the only two on the first shuttle bus to town and many of the streets still asleep.

I mentioned the fishing industry earlier, but we also learned that Skagen has the world’s largest fish oil factory in the port and believe me, the stench is overwhelming but to the locals, it’s the smell of money! There are about 2,600 employees working in the harbor in any number of capacities. A fish auction is held at dawn each morning in the harbor between May and October, but we docked at 8am and missed it. It also attracts yachting enthusiasts and the harbor was overflowing with very nice, very expensive boats of every size, shape & color. 

An annual attraction is an event known as the Skagen Festival, Denmark’s oldest music festival, which is held the first weekend of July at various venues in the small city and harbor area. As we walked the streets, we could hear bands warming up in several large tents so whenever we were able, we stuck our heads inside and watched the bleachers going up, sound systems being hung, and vendors unloading food & beer. In one instance, a large catering semi-truck was having difficulty backing through an alley so being the only two around, Cheryl and I moved some barricade barrels and helped him navigate. He didn’t speak English, but was very appreciative with several thumbs-up! At least we think they were thumbs!

We stumbled upon the towns cemetery and as morbid as this may seem, we thoroughly enjoyed walking through it. Probably the most beautiful burial grounds we’ve ever seen. The walkways were neat & clean, the landscape meticulously maintained, and each gravesite was adorned with beautiful flowers, shrubbery, statues & candles. I spotted a caretaker raking one of the green areas and hoping she understood English, I flagged her down and complimented her on the lovely, picturesque grounds. She lit up like a Christmas tree, smiling ear-to-ear! As we ran into fellow passengers back in town, we recommended a visit to the cemetery and in follow up conversations, they too were all very impressed. I’ve included a few photos, but they don’t begin to do it justice. Absolutely stunning. I plan to be cremated, but if I were not, I’d want to be buried in Skagen.

At the headland at Grenen, the northernmost point of Denmark, the North Sea & Baltic Sea meet. Because of their different densities, a clear dividing line can be seen, though neither of our cameras picked it up. As a result of turbulent seas, beachings and shipwrecks were common many years ago – we could only spot one wreck, still visible, not far from where we were docked. 

All in all, a very beautiful, clean city, friendly folks, unique shops, interesting structures, very expensive! 

We were back on the ship by Noon, just in time for…more food. We walked about 4 miles today, and in fact, instead of taking the shuttle bus from downtown, we hoofed it all the way back in the high winds. If cold weather & wind burned calories of any significance, we’d both be down on the scale but I’m afraid we’re both going the opposite direction – me much more than Cheryl, of course. She’s very disciplined turning down the big breakfast rolls & fancy evening desserts. I, on the other hand, am NOT. Though I’ve tried to be sensible our first month, I hear these starving voices that encourage and eventually convince me I’m evaporating away!

In preparation for this trip and as I typically do, I diet several months beforehand. In January I tried Nutri-System. In all honesty, the food was so good, I ate 4-weeks of food in less than two. Not a great example of self-discipline! I don’t know how Marie Osmand lost 50 pounds!

…I think I’m in trouble.